This is my first thought when asked about my decision to take my son on a long-term trip to the other end of the globe. In this photo, Aidan is examining a crack in the bridge that is significant enough that the highway below is visible. What a great tool for a lesson about structures, corrosion or even civics.
This was truly unlike anything we’ve ever seen before and even though it was safe enough for us to cross at the time, I wouldn’t want to continue testing our luck!
First, my disclaimer. I unequivocally declare that I adore Toronto! You’d be hard pressed to find an authentic Torontoian who doesn’t. After all, we are the centre of the Canadian Universe (just ask any Vancouverite). However, I’ll be the first to admit, when it comes to pedestrian friendly streetscapes, frankly –Toronto sucks!
With delicious food choices from anywhere in the globe, to our beautiful park lands and a festival for just about anything you can imagine, Toronto really is an incredible city. If you are a sports enthusiast, clubber or shop-a-holic, we’ve got you covered. Into the ballet, live theatre or would rather go ice-skating? In Toronto, you can find all this and everything in between. With increased infrastructure for cyclist, a relatively low crime rate and a population who constantly apologizes, there is very little to complain about (unless of course you have caught wind of our “Ford Nation fiasco”). But even the best city should not rest on one’s laurels. After visiting Mexico City, AKA Distrito Federal (D.F.), it is clear that when it comes to pedestrian friendly streetscapes, Toronto can stand to take a few lessons from Mexico’s bustling capital.
We estimated that the walk from our hotel in lovely Polanco to the Historic Centre of Mexico would be quick, easy and straightforward. While it was straight, we certainly underestimated the distance. Accounting for the fact that it was August in the heat trap of Mexico City, with temperatures reaching nearly 32 degrees Celsius, the would have been hour and twenty-minute hike was anything but a breeze. With a 6-year-old in tow, questioning every-darn-third-step, “where are we going?”, the journey could have been pure torture.
And then we were rescued!
Once recalling the old adage about the journey and not the destination, we slowed down and realized that there was a lot to take in along the way. The busy street of Paseo de Reforma runs diagonally through the city and as though the street was created with a variety of uses in mind; not merely a thoroughfare for vehicle traffic, is lined with grand sculptures, unique installations and historic plaques. The large installations were just too tempting for our son to avoid climbing on and when we paused, we found a ton of unique views to snap photographs of. The beautiful pedestrian friendly streetscape was our salvation in what became a 3.5 hour journey.
Nonetheless, this is a fraction of the reason that Mexico gets my vote for best streetscapes. Under the blaring sun, we found it necessary to stop often to rest and hydrate and always found somewhere to sit and relax without having to leave the street or become a patron at one of the establishments. The sidewalk on this major street was wide with plenty of space for pedestrians to navigate, with plenty of options for seating. Some of the resting spots were incidental like curbs, retaining walls for gardens or steps of monuments. But, there was also a huge assortment of public spots specifically dedicated to taking a load off. The seats were not haphazardly placed and are carefully designed and arranged. Some seats are creative and artistic, some functional and some designed for groups of people to linger and enjoy each others company. In any case, they have created an inviting, pleasant and convenient streetscape.
By contrast, imagine walking along Bloor or Yonge Street in Toronto. From above, thus must resemble an interpretive dance, as people shuffle around each other, at times having to stop dead to allow others to pass. Now imagine needing to stop and have a seat to look at a map or have a snack. In the streets of Toronto, I find this nearly impossible. Before you say it, YES, it is true, Toronto has many sculptures, plaques and benches too, but perhaps out of fear that people will become too comfortable in the streets or maybe to discourage homeless people from being visible, places to sit are few and far between, unless you happen to be near a park.
In the downtown core of Toronto, ‘incidental’ seating is typically on private property and is generally not welcome. Private landowners even go to great lengths to police this matter. As participants at this year’s Pride Parade, a security guard directed my son to get off the ledge he was resting on as we waited for the parade to start. City planners and decision makers perpetuate this mindset by making use of ‘hostile architecture’. That is, where there are benches and public seats, they are generally uncomfortable and are designed to discourage prolonged resting. All contributing to Toronto being less people and pedestrian friendly than Mexico City.
I dare you to compare. I would even hazard a guess that the number of available spots to sit on Paseo de Reforma alone exceed the public sidewalk seating options in all of downtown Toronto. This main street of D.F. has managed to integrate function, beauty and design to achieve an exceptional streetscape.
So, if you are planning a trip to Mexico City, make sure you save time to leisurely meander along Avenida Reforma. You won’t be disappointed. And, if you are a city planner in Toronto, take note! In this crucial period of redevelopment is an opportunity to make our streets more pedestrian friendly. Who knows, if we can manage to increase our sidewalk width, we may even acquire space for wandering mariachi bands to go with one of the many new burrito eateries that seem to have popped up on every other Toronto street.
When my son and I were in Mexico City for the first time, amidst all the delicious cultural food choices, Aidan asked for pizza. I obliged and thus the quest began. While waiting for our order, we wondered if we would be treated to pizza similar to the kind we eat in Canada or would it have Mexican flavouring and thus be Mexican Pizza. To Aidan’s satisfaction, it was definitely Pizza in Mexico.
Nearly four months later, we travelled to a resort in Santa Lucia, Cuba. In a rather poor area near the resort, where many locals live, a Canadian friend of mine was staying with family friends. The family invited us to a delicious home cooked Cuban meal with multiple courses, turning out to be the best meal we had in Cuba.
A few days later, we took a ride on a horse-drawn carriage to return to the small village with a few tokens of our appreciation. In our daytime tour of the community, Aidan pointed out a small restaurant among the houses. “Mom, pizza in Cuba, or Cuban pizza?” We convinced the driver to stop while we ran in and ordered from the limited selection.
The owner took Aidan to the back of the restaurant to see the pizza being cooked over an open fire, and not in a pizza oven. The dough was more dense and once cooked, it was folded in half to be eaten. Both the ham and cheese had a very distinct taste and there was no tomato sauce. The cheese was strong and not stringy the way we typically have it in Canada. The verdict; without a doubt, Cuban Pizza! Not something Aidan was familiar with or much enjoyed, which meant we had lots to share with our driver.
My Colombian friend tells me that the pizza in his country is simply the best! Since I wasn’t able to sample any during my last trip there, it’s on the list when we tour through South America. Stayed tuned for the results!